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AROUND THE USA

Oak Ridge, Tennessee, faces post-nuclear challenges

• Updated in 2001 •

Oak Ridge, Tennessee, a city born of war, is still challenged more than 50 years later to find its place in a peaceful world. We grew up in Oak Ridge -- born and reared, as they say in the mountains -- so we bring a special perspective to this once-secret city.

Dripping with history as the birthplace of the atomic bomb that ended World War II, Oak Ridge's efforts to diversify economically have met with mixed success as government programs prove to be less and less dependable. Uranium processing and weapons production virtually ceased with the end of the Cold War. Several major peace-oriented programs failed to survive the controversies around nuclear power and the national political winds that affect Oak Ridge.

The latest federal project is a $1.5 billion Spallation Neutron Source to be built 2001 to 2006. Employing 700-800 workers during construction and 400-500 scientists once in operation, the facility will study the structure of materials at the atomic level. Complete funding of the project is uncertain.

A host of spinoff industries emerged in the 1980s as the federal government liberalized laws and policies relating to commercial development of technologies from Oak Ridge National Laboratory, and these are the most promising segments of the city's economy.

Oak Ridge's population has been stable -- some might say stagnant -- for several decades, but it continues to have outstanding public schools, a rich civic life and a growing reputation as a regional medical center.

Many Oak Ridgers like to perceive it as a city of scientists and engineers, but demographically it has shifted from having the nation's highest ratio of Ph.D.s per capita to a more middle-class and blue-collar population. The city council long ago passed out of control of the city's educated elite and for a time was controlled by conservative Christians. The philosophical pendulum has since swung back toward the center.

It remains a fascinating place to visit, as we do often, and an appealing place to live, as our parents do today. Our information about Oak Ridge falls into these categories:

• History
• Visiting
• Lodging & Restaurants
• Relocating
• Other Links

Also take a look at Jackson-Crockett's Tennessee Guide

History

Until 1942, the area where Oak Ridge is located was rural and remote, despite proximity to Knoxville, 20 miles away.

A few small communities -- often little more than a store and a church at a crossroads -- were the social center for farmers who'd inhabited the area for generations. The communities were isolated from Knoxville by the Clinch River and from each other by ridges, primarily Black Oak Ridge, from which the city took its name.

At the beginning of World War II, scientists led by Albert Einstein convinced President Roosevelt that an atomic bomb was possible, and the Manhattan Project began.

The Army Corps of Engineers needed facilities to extract the minute traces of uranium-235 isotope from uranium ore, which is primarily comprised of uranium-238. Some say it was a political sop to U.S. Sen. K.D. McKellar, a Tennessee Democrat who chaired the Senate Appropriations Committee, but for whatever reason, the isolated Tennessee hills were selected.

Two technologies were conceived -- electromagnetic separation and gaseous diffusion. Not knowing which would work better and facing the urgency of war, the government decided to build a plant for each method. Topography around Oak Ridge made it possible to separate the plants from each other -- and from the main laboratory -- by placing them in different valleys so that an accident might be contained.

Thus, the government built three facilities, which are still known by their wartime code names -- X-10 (Oak Ridge National Laboratory), Y-12 (electromagnetic separation) and K-25 (gaseous diffusion). A fourth area was designated as Townsite for the people who would build and operate the plants.

Initial expectations of 10,000 residents swelled to a population of 100,000 within 18 months. Many were scientists and college graduates recruited nationwide for a secret mission in a city that wasn't on a map.

Access to the city was restricted to workers and residents with a pass and those that they permitted to visit, frustrating salesmen and unwelcome relatives. Most workers knew little of the city's purpose; they each performed their individual task and were forbidden to talk with others about work. To limit leaks, phone lines were tapped and mail subject to inspection. Famous scientists working on the project -- as well as spies -- slipped in and out of town under assumed identities.

The Army built a complete city virtually overnight with shopping centers, schools, entertainment, cafeterias, a hospital, a newspaper and other facilities. A single church, today known as the Chapel on the Hill, served all faiths with services scheduled almost back to back on weekends ... Catholics departed as Protestants arrived. A huge bus network provided transportation around town, to the plants and to Knoxville, the nearest city.

Newly arriving families were assigned to houses based on family size; singles lived in dormitories; blacks were segregated in Scarboro.

The gaseous diffusion method of separating the uranium isotopes proved to be faster and less expensive. Processed uranium was shipped to Los Alamos, N.M., for assembly of the bombs. The first bomb was a successful test in the New Mexico desert, and the second was dropped on Hiroshima, Japan. The bomb dropped on Nagasaki was made from another technology -- plutonium processed in Hanford, Wash.

Only when the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima did most Oak Ridgers learn what their role had been in the war.

After World War II, the population quickly shrank to about 28,000, a level that has remained remarkably unchanged since the 1940s. The electromagnetic processing facilities at Y-12 were dismantled as unfeasible and the buildings converted for engineering and research in other nuclear activities. The gates came down in a few years, permitting free access to the city. Access to the plants is still restricted.

In the 1950s, the federal government began to withdraw from civic affairs, selling homes to their occupants, letting the city incorporate and inviting private enterprise to assume its customary role. Union Carbide and, later, Lockheed Martin (first as Martin Marietta) became the manager of the nuclear plants for the government. Another changeover is pending -- to a consortium led by the University of Tennessee.

The city remains committed to public education, repeatedly ranking as one of the top school systems in the United States. Its civic institutions, including an orchestra and community playhouse, remain strong. It has a good public library.

Especially in its early decades, Oak Ridge displayed a markedly liberal-progressive tendency. Oak Ridge High School was the first in the South to desegregate after the 1954 Brown vs. Board of Education decision. All schools were completely integrated by the mid-1960s with barely a ripple.

Oak Ridge's proximity to Knoxville has inhibited enterprises such as movie theaters, lodging and restaurants. Knoxville has grown toward Oak Ridge, and a four-lane highway now connects them, which makes the Atomic City a virtual suburb of Tennessee's third-largest city. Knoxville is more urbane by virtue of its size and the presence of the University of Tennessee.

In recent decades, Oak Ridge has become more heterogeneous and its leadership more diverse. True to 1950s-era desires to become a "normal" city, it is now closer to the mainstream of Tennessee. A benefit has been a diminished culture clash with the surrounding areas, a phenomenon akin to "town vs. gown" tensions in many university communities.

Straying from its roots as a highly planned community in the war, developers have been given too much leeway. Oak Ridge Turnpike and Illinois Avenue -- the primary arteries -- have become strip highways with inadequate controls on growth and an unsightly hodgepodge of architectural styles. Looser standards decades ago and wartime exigencies created a legacy of environmental problems that are still being addressed.

Our ability to objectively assess Oak Ridge is limited by our personal history there. We think it remains unique, both as a place to live and as a place to visit. Its heritage and scientific focus give it a worldliness and sophistication that wouldn't be expected in a Southern city of 28,000. And its place in the history books is assured forever.

Visiting

Most people can see the highlights of Oak Ridge in a day. For those who don't have parents to visit, we can hardly see special merit to staying overnight.

American Museum of Science and Energy Various exhibits cover a range of topics about nuclear and other forms of energy and the science behind them. This is a federal museum and has always been the city's most popular tourist attraction. Also includes a section on the history of the city.

Graphite Reactor Located at Oak Ridge National Laboratory, this was the first reactor in Oak Ridge and is now a National Historic Landmark. Now open for tours.

Children's Museum of Oak Ridge Science, art and history are emphasized in hands-on learning opportunities that encourage young people to understand their cultural heritage, environment and the world around them.

Jackson Square Still an active retail area with many interesting shops, this was the original Townsite in World War II ... the heart of the city. Surrounded by World War II housing that's been modernized, expanded and remodeled by successive generations of Oak Ridgers. Big Ed's Pizza on the north edge of the retail area is a destination for many, including Knoxvillians.

X-10, Y-12 and K-25: Generally, you can't enter the three nuclear plants, but you can see them from nearby roads and official overlooks. If you know someone who works at one of the plants, ask to be included in the officially scheduled visitor days that occur occasionally. On visitor days, employees can escort friends and families through carefully selected parts of the facilities.

Swimming Pool: OK; this isn't something we would typically recommend. But to our knowledge, this is the biggest and best municipal swimming pool in America. It's got everything from a kid's section to a high-dive with plenty of lifeguards on duty. Kids get in for a buck; adults a little more. Dressing rooms and showers. Summers only, naturally. Clear water fed by a natural spring (treated and filtered, of course). Near Oak Ridge High School.

Lodging & Food

Despite the sophistication that often characterizes Oak Ridge, its restaurants and lodging have been slow to keep pace with the image. In the past decade, though, some better establishments have emerged.

Lodging

The far-and-away best lodging choice is the Jameson Inn. It's located in the center of town and is convenient to anything. It's clean and has a full set of amenities for a mid-priced hotel, including pool and exercise room.

Lesser options are the Comfort Inn, Hampton Inn and Garden Plaza Hotel, which we recommend in that order.

Dining

The Bleu Hound Grill is definitely Oak Ridge's best restaurant, and it could hold its own in most any market. Creative recipes and a variety of ingredients provide options for any diner. Wine list and full bar. Reservations recommended on weekends and special occasions. Located adjacent to Jackson Square, the original Oak Ridge Townsite during the war and of historic interest today.

Two other noteworthy local establishments are at Jackson Square:

• Big Ed's Pizza is the restaurant most likely to draw people from out of town, though we've never thought the pizza to be that good.
• The Soup Kitchen is a great place for lunch.

Elsewhere: Buddy's Bar-B-Q is a branch of a Knoxville chain and very good. National chains such as Applebee's, Shoney's, Red Lobster and Ruby Tuesday's are dependable but boring.

In Knoxville

Generally, visitors will find more options in Knoxville. Its westerly growth along Kingston Pike and Interstate 40 has closed the gap between the cities. Pellissippi Parkway is a four-lane, divided highway between Knoxville and Oak Ridge. Pellissippi Parkway is the quickest route from Oak Ridge to the Knoxville Airport.

Most of the major lodging chains have facilities along I-40 in Knoxville. A variety of restaurants are available; noteworthy homegrown options in this area include Grady's and Calhoun's.

Living in Oak Ridge

Growth patterns in Oak Ridge are constricted by topography and government installations. From the original Townsite centered on Jackson Square, most new residential development has occurred on the east and west ends of town. Many who work at X-10 and Y-12 live in West Knoxville, though that's less practical for people who work at K-25.

Oak Ridge is committed to high-quality public education. Oak Ridge High School serves the entire city. Middle schoolers are divided between two schools -- Robertsville (west) and Jefferson (east) -- with equal reputations for quality. Four elementary schools are organized by school district; we don't know enough about the situation today to comment on relative quality among the elementary schools.

Good Links

First, have you Bookmarked this page yet? Once you have, take a look at:

• Oak Ridge Chamber of Commerce
• The Netscape Open Directory Project has an excellent list of Oak Ridge links.

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